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There is a sense that the country is punching above its weight, an eagerness to showcase the best of the region and satisfaction at overcoming a series of controversies that have dogged Qatar since it won the right to host the event in 2010: allegations of corruption at the bidding stage, criticism of the abusive conditions endured by migrant workers, an economic blockade led by its neighbours Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates and then the coronavirus pandemic. The mood among Qataris and other Arabic speakers in the country is far more upbeat. The Towers will host two luxury hotels, which will open in time for the World Cup. Labourers on the Katara Towers project in Lusail City leave the site at the end of the day. They should have done something to avoid this,” says a Kenyan barista. I don’t think they have apologised yet, at least to the families of those guys.
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“We hear news of people losing their lives, so I don’t think the World Cup should be coming to Qatar. Those concerns are shared by some workers. Concern for workers’ rights has prompted protests by the Norwegian, German, Danish and Dutch national teams during the qualifying rounds. The shadow of abusive labour practices and workers’ deaths hangs over the tournament despite new laws to introduce a minimum wage and give workers the right to change jobs. I would tell my children about it when I am old,” says one, a guard at a top-end hotel. I would love to see the players in real life. The only group of low-wage workers who appear excited about the tournament are Kenyans, steeped in years of Premier League coverage. While ticket prices have not yet been announced, Fifa is already selling hospitality packages that start at £705 for a first-round match and rise to £845,000 for a 10-match package in a private suite. We hear news of people losing their lives, so I don’t think the World Cup should be coming to Qatar Kenyan barista “How can we afford World Cup tickets on our salaries?” adds another. We built this country but they are not thinking about us workers,” says one. “When I came to Qatar there was nothing here. Sitting in a park in Doha, a group of south Asian community activists who have all worked in Qatar for more than a decade are similarly ambivalent. During the event we’ll have far too much work.” “I can be standing guard here beside the stadium or over in that town, it doesn’t make any difference to me,” he says. One says he has no interest in the World Cup, he is just here to make money. Touchy guards stand in the shade and shout at you if you try to take a photo. Photograph: Mohamed Farag/Fifa/Getty Images The only other building in sight is a McDonald’s, built in the same style as the stadium.Īl Bayt Stadium in the city of Al Khor, one of seven new stadiums built for the 2022 World Cup in Qatar. The furthest stadium from Doha – just a 30-minute drive away – is Al Bayt, a graceful structure designed like a nomadic tent. In 2017, Qatar’s finance minister said the country was spending $500m a week on World Cup-related construction. The view from above also reveals Qatar’s monumental ambition and wealth: seven stadiums, a new airport, roads, a metro system and hundreds of hotels. In just a few minutes you glide past Al Bayt Stadium, then the Lusail Stadium comes into view, like a giant wicker basket, and as the landing gear is lowered you pass by Ras Abu Aboud, a stadium made partly of shipping containers, which will be dismantled after the event. Qatar’s diminutive size – organisers have called it the “most compact World Cup ever” – is evident on the final approach to Doha from the air. But for the low-wage workers the Guardian has interviewed, mostly from south Asia, the response is ambivalent: a mixture of a lack of interest, a focus on earning money and the knowledge that even if they wanted to watch a match, they could never afford a ticket. The two Mohameds reflect the diversity and divisions – of nationality, culture and sport – in this tiny Gulf state of 2.6 million, where 95% of the working population are foreigners.įor Qataris and Arabic speakers, the overwhelming emotions appear to be pride and excitement to be hosting the first World Cup in the region. The stadiums are amazing,” says the Egyptian chemistry teacher. “We’re all excited and supporting the World Cup. After all, about 70% of Qatar’s population are from the cricket-loving subcontinent.īut on a Friday evening in Aspire Park, filled with families enjoying picnics and children playing football, another Mohamed has a different take. With a year to go until the football World Cup kicks off, Mohamed’s response may have the event’s organisers worried. W hen asked if he’s looking forward to the World Cup, Mohamed, an Indian salesman, grins as he casts his fishing line off the promenade in the heart of Qatar’s capital, Doha.